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Mt. Fishtail for New Years Eve

What better way to see off the year with a good tramp to a remote hut on the side of a mountain? This was the plan at least. The weather round here hasn’t been ideal for tramping recently as the cloud base has been relatively low and the odd driech day. This also resulted in my parents being stuck up here unable to fly back down to Wanaka but its good to spend some extra time with them and go out flying round the Abel Tasman where the weather has been better.

Flying Abel Tasman

As we wanted to be in the Fishtail Hut  for new years eve we knew we had to be there early to get a bunk as it only has 4 and there was 4 of us in the group as it was. So the plan was to drive over to the north bank of Wairau River which is where we would drive a short distance up the Pine Valley, park the car, and then make the short 40min tramp to the Pine Valley Hut. We would stay here for the first night so that we could hit the trail early and summit in plenty of time.

Pine Valley

The drive up Pine Valley. The sky moving above us looking pretty menacing.

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Ally, Cherie and Timo cooking up grub at the first hut.

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Ally reading the Hut book

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The 8 bunk hut, nice and cosy playing cards.

Meet a really nice family from Fairbanks, Alaska in the hut. The day before they had stayed in the Fishtail hut with their 5 and 6 year old boys who were full of energy and quite funny. They had some really interesting stories of hunting moose and some perpetual motion machine their friends used to catch salmon. Taught the one of the lads some essential dance moves he might need later in life including the reverse lawn mower. They also told us about some glow worms they had seen the night before so we all went out looking for them.

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This may look light a photo of dirt however there are a few glow worms in there if you look closely.

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The Pine Valley Hut

The next morning we were up pretty early cooking up some porridge and saying goodbye to our Alaskan friends. We managed to leave at the leisurely time of 9am and heading 30min along the trail to a river crossing before it was straight up the ridge for the rest of the morning.

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The track is mostly in thick bush so you very rarely get to see any views until you are pretty close to the top. We had seen a few notes in the DOC books about issues with wasps on the way up which we didn’t think to much of however some of the dying beach trees were totally covered in them. Definitely have to watch where your putting your hands scrambling up.

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The weather starting to clear, along with the bush, to provide the first proper view of Mt. Fishtail. (1641m)

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Ally chilling on top of the ridge.

The last part of the trail opens up and its a short traverse across a scree field where the Fishtail hut is perched neatly on a rocky bluff. We arrived at 12 so had made it up in 3 hours which was pretty fast.

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The Fishtail Hut.

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After a quick cup of tea and a setting things up in the hut Timo, Ally and I headed off to the summit.

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A pretty mellow hike up the North side of the peak.

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Looking out over the Wairau Valley.

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Ally up top

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Looking across the Richmond Range

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Ally and Timo sharing some dried mango which I missed out on….

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Way back down to the hut

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Looking down at the rain moving across the valley.

When we arrived back at the hut 2 others had arrived and informed us that 4 others were on their way up. 10 people in a 4 bunk hut, it was going to be a cosy night. In the end 4 folk put tents up outside and 2 of us slept on the floor of the hut. Ended up been pretty comfy but the tents sounded like they were going to get blown away. The hut wasn’t far from it either!

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Cherie proud of her swis army knife

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Another epic view

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Sunset

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Cherie sneaking a peek out the hut.

We had planned to get out of bed at 4am and summit again intime for sunrise however there was a severe risk of getting blown off the top and there wasn’t going to be much of a view anyway. The box of wine may have played a slight influence on this decision also.

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Timo getting ready for the quick decent down the hill.

We eventually got out of bed, cooked up some more porridge in the previous nights wine vassels, and set off back down. We were back at the car by 1pm. It was a really good way to spend New Years and I can’t wait to get back out again!

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Flying over to Dingleburn Station

So the season is all over now and and summer is just around the corner. Got to go flying with my old man for the first time in couple years as his back has been crook and I have been back in Scotland. There are hundreds of little airstrips all over these parts at remote sheep stations and wee huts etc so thought we would head over to Dingleburn station on the other side of Lake Hawea and have a look. Here are a few shots from the flight.

The Dove of Peace P-51 lining up with us for take off

Above Lake Hawea

The 4×4 track to Dingleburn

Go Pro on the wing

Dingleburn approach

Rough wee strip at dingle burn before the main one. Almost hit a bird of prey on the way in! Epic backdrop with the waterfall though.

There are plenty more strips further up the valley

Taking off and heading home…

The Red Bridge on the way to Tarras while we make our approach to Wanaka airfield.

 

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Sapa

Then sapa. Epic! Weather wasn’t the best when we arrived and this would continue for the rest of our stay. As soon as we entered the town we were greated by loads of local lasses trying to sell us stuff, very skillfully as well I might add and maybe not straight away but we would all end up buying something from atleast one of them.

Sophie Wardlaw

Sophie trying to keep her can of coke away from some local kids.

And then they attacked her….. she deserved it though.

First day we meet up with some german guys we meet on the train on the way to sapa and hired motorbikes so we could drive up to silver waterfalls and the Tran Ton pass which is the highest mtn pass in Vietnam. Really nice.

One of they many impressive waterfalls we came across.

Tiff, myself and our german friends decided to go on a mission later that evening to go and check out one of the local villages. Really impressive to see all the rice paddies and friendly locals.

One horned water buffalo and Tiff’s favorite animal.

View down towards the village.

Rice paddie.

A butt ton of rice!

Wee lass dressed in the traditionally bright colours

Not much room for anything other than rice

We got up and planned to walk down to lai chai village which is about a 13km trek. When we left the cafe where we had breakfast we were once again followed buy the local girls asking the usual questions ‘Where are you going?’ or ‘You buy from me, you promis maybe later.’ We just carried on walking but 3 of the lasses, including one I bought a scarf thing from the day before followed us and eventually offered to show us to the village down a secret route where we didn’t have to pay the 40,000 entrance fee.

Soph, Tiff and Skye going through some corn

Ping pointing out marijuana plants they use for making hemp.

Trying not to collapse the terraces

Got pretty steep in places

We knew that chances are it was going to lead straight to there shop or something but we figured we’d just go for it. They lead us down right in amoungst the rice paddies other crops. The pointed out different plants the used for different things like indigo for dying their clothing a maruajna which they used for the hemp to make cloths. Took a while to convince them that actually know I wasn’t interested in smoking it!

Ping and her friend

A few of them spoke incredibley good English, some of the best we’d heard in all of Vietnam and when we asked them where they had learnt it was just from chatting to tourists.

Viaduct carrying water to the villages.

More rice

When it rains here it rains pretty dam hard

So so green!

The day ended up being one of the best days we’d had so far, we learnt alot from the lasses and they were super friendly. In return for the generosity and showing us around we were expecting a whooping bill or demands to buy stuff from them. It didn’t come. Soph baught a scarf and bracelet and tiff got a wee something and that was it. We asked the girls what they think of Hanoi as we didn’t really like it there but they had never been as far as sapa town! Would of loved to show them around Edinburgh or somewhere for the day!

Ping

One of the other girls that showed us about

Tartan umbrellas are definitely in in Catcat village.

Three on a bike on the way back up the hill.

Wee lass carrying her sibling while trying to sell stuff to tourists.

Sapa ended up being one of my favorite bits of the trip, if you ever go to Vietnam don’t miss out on it.

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Part 2 of Vietnam, Can Tho, Mui Ne and Hoi An

Can Tho was the next town and it was pretty cool. We had a very short time there, less than a day, so we wanted to get the very most out of it and see as much as we could. We arrived late ish and got up at 5am to meet a small boat that was going to show us around the Mekong for sunrise. Stops inlucled the two floating markets and around some of the canals, mangroves and rice paddies. We got a real good insight into how all the markets worked and got to see the full process of it all. We got back at about 1pm and then it was off on the bus to Siagon airport to meet our new travel companion, Tiff. Probably easiest to just show a load of photos with captions so enjoy.

Can tho mekong delta

Sunrise in the Mekong and the river is already alive with hundreds of boats off to do different things!

Each area of the river had a flotilla of boats that specialised in selling certain produce. To let other boats know what they were selling they would just hang them off a stick on the front of their boat. These guys were selling some root vegetable but there was boats full of melons, pineapples and even floating coffee shops!

Shopping for melons.

House on stilts on the banks of the Mekong

Poor kid bored out of his mind being dragged around to do the weekly shop.

Bumped into our favorite Frenchies!

Bored kid was actually a Will Smith wanabe!

After a few hours floating around canals and mangroves we got out and walked through some dry rice paddies.

Soph managed to spot this in the mud which was really random but kind of cool. Wish I’d kept it now but for some reason we left it there.

Really cool wee lass that ran along the paths with us for a while looking for her dad, who was working the rice paddies, to give him a smoke and something to drink.

Dodgy wee bridge.

Hitch-hiker on the way back into Can Tho

We got a taxi out to the main bus station and say the best dashboard display of the whole trip. Every car should have a scene from Jurassic Park on the dash!

We meet up with Tiff, one of Soph’s mates from Chamonix, in Siagon the next day. An early start the next day to do a few things in the city before heading off to to Mui Ne, which is about 5 hours north of Siagon. It’s right on the coast and a really nice town famous for its wind and kite surfing. We sorted out with a local guy to take us out in his 4×4 to show us some random stream called fairy stream which turned out to be pretty darn cool. It was a shallow river cutting its way through the sand dunes creating some incredible colours and shapes. The water was actually hotter than the air temperature.

Fairy Stream.

Stop off on the way to the dunes. Fishermen sorting their nets.

Not the cleanest beach in Vietnam by any means.

Then we headed off to the ‘white dunes’. They were proper Lawrence of Arabia dunes which I didn’t expect to see here.

On the way to the dunes.

Oasis in the middle of the dunes.

Tiff about to drop into a fresh looking line on one of the dunes…..

It didn’t go so well for her….. Heaps harder than you think though.

Sunset at the dunes.

We were all pretty sweaty so went tried to find somewhere to shower and ended up buying a beer in a hotel to use their epic epic pool. Travelling is tough sometimes. Now we are waiting on our night bus to take us to na trang. Beers on the beech, ooolaay!

After another shit experience on the night buses of Vietnam we arrived in Na Trang and checked into our hotel. We had a wonder around town and ended up going to some mud baths for the afternoon. Was actually quite a cool experience.  Ended up leaving Na Trang the same day and headed up to Hoi An on another night bus…..

Not the comfiest way to travel….

Hoi An is possibly the nicest town I have ever visited. Totally different to any other town we have vistited in Vietnam with a little bit more of a Japanese feel to it. The old town is beautifully lit up at night but hundreds of colourful lanterns with candles etc floating in the river.

Lass selling pretty pricy slices of pineapple.

Tiff and I had some issues when combining out hats with bicycles.

I had planned to get my first ever suit made while we were here so after checking out a few different places I went to Yaly Cuture and got measured up. First fitting for the suit was the next day, no idea how they make it all so quick but, after a couple more fittings, the end result was fantastic. Plus they keep all your measurements so I can just phone up and order another one when ever. First day we bumped into our friends Emanuel and Guillaume again so hired bikes and went around all the rice paddies and back towns. Everyone was so so friendly and wanted to come speak to us.

We went and got on a boat the next day which took us over to the Cham Islands which are about an hour away from the mainland. We snorkeled on two different sites and got to swim with a school of barracuda and saw all kinds of other stuff including starting a turf war with G-Mo (Nemo’s black cousin). We stopped on the island for lunch and it can only be described as paradise.

The fact Sophie is the only one waring a life jacket wasn’t just a fashion statement.

Paradise.

We met some really cool people on the boat and ended up meeting up with them all for few drinks later. Pretty fun night and shotted some horrid local brews which come is vessels containing birds feet, snakes and snails. Yum.

The boat that took us to the island.

Fishing Boat.

Fisherman

Sunset fishing at the river mouth.

We got up the next day and hired a few bikes for $1 to go round the outskirts of the town again. Easily the best way of seeing the area.

Sophie living up to her nickname and Tiff doing the same.

Working the rice paddies.

The paddies are also used for farming ducks too.

Chef at one of the restaurants in town.

Next stop is train to Dong Hoi and Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park.

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First Part of the trip. Bangkok, Saigon, Cambodia and Phu Quoc

The first stop on our travels was 2 nights in Bangkok. I had heard many stories about it so kind of knew what to expect and we were not disappointed. We managed to avoid getting a taxi and just hopped on the bus into town. We had booked a hostel a few weeks before called the  Niras. One of the nicest hostels i had ever stayed at with lots of really quirky features. It was about 15 min walk from the main Kosan road tourist trap so manged to stay clear of that most the time. Only having one full day there we wanted to just see as much of the city as we could.

Each street tended to have on specific item to sell. This was at the start of basket and whicker street. But there were streets for flowers, golden buddahs, doors and everything you could imagine. For a big shop you would end up going all over the whole city!

The famous Bangkok Tuktuk. Easily the best way to see they city and so cheap, watch out for scams though. Almost every driver will try and take you to their mates suit shop!

We were stopped on numerous occasions by people offering directions which normally I am weary of but here was all good. One guy stopped and got a took took to take us round for couple of hours for just 80 pence. 

Top sights included the Golden Mount, Standing Buddah, Laid Back Buddah and few other random places. The driver did the standard extra few drop offs in places where he gets commissions etc but we had no need for suits and gem stones.

View from the Golden Mount.

Polishing Gem stones in Bangkok.

The next day it was off to the airport again to catch our flight to Vietnam. Got a taxi to the airport this time for ease. Top tip for taxis out here is make sure the meter is tuned on! They will try tell you it is broken but ‘it’s a trap!’. Anyways, just a short flight to Vietnam and once again hopped on the public bus into town. Words cant even begin to explain how many motor bikes and scooters there are in Sigon. It’s unbelievable. On every side of the road, the pavements and even through parks. Apparently there is 4 million motorbikes in Sigon alone which is one for every two people but I did see a good few with a family of 4 on one bike. We eventually found a hostel, with Gok Wan look-a-like owner, down a rabbit warren of little back streets which also doubled up as peoples living rooms.

Rubber Trees

Rubber Trees

First day in Sigon we went to the Cu Chi tunnels which are about 2 hours bus ride out of the city. They were a network of tiny tunnels that stretch for over 200km around the area and were used by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam war. After we got back to town we went to the war remnants museum. Definitely worth a visit if your ever there.

One day Sigion was enough and we wanted to get out the city so we booked bus to Cambodia.

River Crossing on the way to Phnom Penn

We arrived in Phnom Penn pretty late but eventually found somewhere to stay. Strange feel to the place and woke the next morning early to go to the killing fields and S-21 prison. Its something I didn’t really know about but almost a third of the of the Cambodian population were murdered by the Khamer Rouge during the 70s. After visiting Auschwitz and already had some ideas in my head about what it might be like there but you end up walking around the mass graves and teeth and bones litter the ground. Truly a moving experience and especially as it happened so recently. To learn more about the atrocities that happened click here.

After only one night in Phnom Penn it was time to move on to Sian Reap and Angor Wat. The bus ride was not the most pleasant but we stopped off a few times for food and tried the local delicacie of tarantula. Not as bad as you might think but Sophie wasn’t so keen for it. We arrived pretty late and were greeted by the hoards of toktok drivers looking for business. After finding a hotel for a couple of nights we got an early night as we wanted to get to Angor early. I didn’t know what to expect when we went to Angor as it is so famous and been in many different films. When you get there though, along with the thousand other tourists, its incredible. You feel like Indian jones and the theme was in my head all day long!

Sophie checking out Angor Wat.

Along with the masses of tourists there was also a local wedding!

One of the smaller temples.

Doesn’t look steep but it was

Really cool guy that helped our toktok driver fix the puncture.

We managed to go to all the main temples and away from most of the crowds which was really cool. Our tuktuk driver hadn’t fixed the puncture from the night before though so had to stop and get that fixed.

We went out for a few too many drinks with some of the guys we had met on the bus on the way here. Good night and Sian Reap really comes alive at night.

Woke up hung over and whilst slightly still drunk we thought it would be a good idea to go to Phu Quoc Island which is back in Vietnam. Its a long fifteen hour bus journey on a sleeper bus which is where I am writing this now. Possibly the weirdest experience of my life. It stinks and is so loud but its pretty much a load of bunk beds on a coach and there is a massive electrical storm outside. Oh and it stunk of piss and the AC is broken. Turning into a sweaty disaster! Thats all for now. Catch up soon

Nice wee place near our hotel.

Lightening outside whilst waiting for the tuktuk to the bus station.

Pretty much all of Cambodia in one bus journey. Not recommended.

Cambodian Boarder Post

Looking back into Cambodia. Because casinos are illegal in Vietnam, just over the boarder there are heaps!

Phu Quoc

I am on a boat. Its 8am and just leaving Phu Quoc Island. Been here 2 full days and 3 nights. The rest of the trip here from Sian Reap was very long, took us like 20 hours to get there. Well worth it though as we arrived in glorious sun shine and the accommodation we managed to find was a wee bungalow about 5 meters from the beach and had hammocks outside. Within 5 min already used my man skills and cracked open a coconut. After a quick stroll along the beach we went for dinner in some French speaking place which was cool. That night there was a massive thunderstorm that kept us awake most the night and when we woke the weather was still pretty grim. This didn’t stop us from hiring a wee 125cc ped and trying to go see the sights of the island. It pissed down. Heaps. Even with my poncho, courtesy of Canadian Bob, we both got absolutely soaked.  Then just as the road started to turn into a river we got a puncture. After a quick F1 style pit stop we headed back to Doung Dong where we were staying.

We arranged that night to head into the night market with a French couple from Chamonix, Guillaume and Emanuel, we had met on the bus here. As its an island there was so so much fresh sea food! Good times were had and few beers sank.

Soph, Guillaume, Emanuel and Norwegian Thomas chilling in Doung Dong

It was up early the next day and we hit the road with Giam and Emanuel who had also hired peds and we headed off to tour the south part of the island. There is only like 5km of paved roads on the whole bloody island, so it was pot holes the whole way… First stop was at a pearl farm. A lot more too this than I imagined but pretty cool none the less. Then we headed to the very south tip of the island with a quick stop en route to watch a cock fight (im not saying i condone this but its just what they do here).

Cock Fighting

The birds were pulled apart shortly after this photo.

Squid Fishing Boats

We stopped off in a random harbour where hundreds of squid boats with massive lights all over them were harboured. Some guy showed us this big barrel of what looked like manky as water but when he scooped some out it was full of squid and the darkness in the water was just squid ink. Next stop was Saio Beach and what a beach it was. Like something from a Bounty advert. Crystal clear waters and white sand beaches. I will let the pictures do the talking.

Paradise

After swimming and hanging out on the beach it was time to head back but we had heard about some waterfalls on the way. After another pit stop fof ANOTHER FLAT TIRE we made it to the falls which wern’t massive but still pretty cool. There was two main falls which you could actually walk behind and still be fairly dry. We met a bunch of locals there all our kind of age who were having a few beers and loads of fruit so we hung out with them for a while which was really really good fun.  Vietnamese really are some of the friendliest people i have ever met.

One of the Jungle waterfalls, smaller one.

We planned out where we wanted to go next as we have to be back in sai gon on Friday to meet tiff. Figured a quick stop in the Mekong delta could be cool so we booked a boat for 8am the next day which is where I am writing this section right now. In her typical transportation style Sophie has gone to sleep so yeah. Next stop Ho Cho or something like that.

Sophie Wardlaw

Sophie stoked on a cake being named after her. It was however a disappointing cake with only 2 raisins in the whole loaf!

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